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Wood care advice
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Wood care advice
- Avoid placing the furniture in direct sunlight or in damp areas of the home.
- If you plan on using the furniture outdoors, please inform us upon purchase so that we can add an outdoor finish to the wood.
- Use coasters or placemats when placing hot or cold items on the wood surface.
- Place a fabric or leather pad under accessories (e.g. lamps, vases, etc.) to avoid scratches on the wood surface.
- For routine cleaning, use a silk or lint-free cloth or dampen a cloth with water or diluted wood cleaning polish (see wood-specific care instructions below).
- Avoid any chemical-based cleaning products.
- For nickel and brass hardware, simply clean with a damp cloth.
- To avoid a waxy build-up, use the appropriate wood polish only once every six months.
- On unsealed / untreated wood products:
- Avoid contact with all liquids (red wine and oils in particular)
- Unless recommended by a maintenance professional, polishes, waxes, and sealers ought to be avoided.
- For regular cleaning, dust with a dry silk cloth to avoid scratches.
- To clean spills or smudges, dampen a cloth with water.
In order to ensure that the Iroko wood reaches its full service life of around 30 years, we recommend that the following maintenance service be conducted every six months, which is why we offer all our clients X2 free services per year.
In case you prefer to service the product on your own, below are the steps you can follow:
- For products that have been varnished or sealed, you will first need to sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to remove the wood sealants.
- You then need to ensure that the surface of the wood is clean. You may use a commercial wood cleaner to remove any stubborn dirt spots and stains.
- If you’ve used any cleaning products or damp clothes, make sure to rinse the surface thoroughly and then allow the wood to dry completely.
- Once clean and dry, you need to apply a wood oil (preferably Teak Oil). Following the wood grain, apply a thin layer of oil onto the wood surface using a lint-free cloth (recommended) or a soft natural-bristle paintbrush or roller.
- Allow the oil to dry (allow for roughly four to six hours between applications) before rubbing the surface down with a soft cloth to remove excess oil.
- Give the surface another light sand with fine-grit sandpaper.
- Apply another fine layer of oil and repeat the process as necessary to achieve the desired finish. Usually between two to four coats will do the trick.
Note: Because Iroko is very similar to teak in that it produces its own natural oils, you may use a wood cleaner that is formulated for either Iroko or teak wood for use in regular cleaning.
Teak wood is one of the easiest woods to maintain because it produces its own natural oils. This keeps the wood in good condition. However, when exposed to the elements (heat, cold, sunlight, etc), its original honey colour will slowly fade into a silvery gray colour over time. To prevent this, the following maintenance service can be conducted every six months, which is why we offer all our clients X2 free services per year.
In case you prefer to service the product on your own, below are the steps you can follow:
- For products that have been previously sealed, you will first need to lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to remove the wood sealants.
- You then need to ensure that the surface of the wood is clean. You may use a wood cleaner to remove any stubborn dirt spots and stains, but be sure that the product is specifically designed to treat Teak.
- If you’ve used any cleaning products or damp clothes, make sure to rinse the surface thoroughly and then allow the wood to dry completely.
- Once clean and dry, you need to apply a Teak wood oil. Following the wood grain, apply a thin layer of oil onto the wood surface using a lint-free cloth (recommended).
- Allow the oil to dry (allow for roughly four to six hours between applications) before rubbing the surface down with a soft cloth to remove excess oil.
- Give the surface another light sand with fine-grit sandpaper.
- Apply another fine layer of oil and repeat the process as necessary to achieve the desired finish. Usually between two to four coats will do the trick.
Note: For regular cleaning, you may use a wood cleaner that is formulated for teak. To protect against stains, you may also apply a small amount of hardwood protector (be sure to read the product description of the protector beforehand to check for any cautions or potential limitations of the product).
Do not paint or varnish Teak products. Because of the oil that teak naturally produces, paints and varnishes are unable to properly adhere to the wood.
Most wood cleaning products will work on these woods to remove stubborn stains. However, natural cleaning solutions (e.g. 10 parts warm water to 1 part vinegar) tend to be the safer options. For regular cleaning, a simple dust with a lightly dampened cloth will suffice.
To keep this wood in top shape, we recommend that the following maintenance service be conducted every six months, which is why we offer all our clients X2 free services per year.
In case you prefer to service the product on your own, below are the steps you can follow:
- For products that have been varnished or sealed, you will first need to sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to remove the wood sealants.
- You then need to ensure that the surface of the wood is clean. You may use a commercial wood cleaner to remove any stubborn dirt spots and stains (be sure to read the product description of the cleaner beforehand to check for any cautions or potential limitations of the product).
- If you’ve used any cleaning products or damp clothes, make sure to rinse the surface thoroughly and then allow the wood to dry completely.
- Once clean and dry, you need to apply a wood oil (preferably Danish for Wenge & Linseed Oil for Red Gum). Following the wood grain, apply a thin layer of oil onto the wood surface using a lint-free cloth (recommended) or a soft natural-bristle paintbrush or roller.
- Allow the oil to dry (allow for roughly four to six hours between applications) before rubbing the surface down with a soft cloth to remove excess oil.
- Give the surface another light sand with fine-grit sandpaper.
- Apply another fine layer of oil and repeat the process as necessary to achieve the desired finish. Usually between two to four coats will do the trick.
Twice as strong as teak wood, Yellow wood is among the most durable of hardwood furniture. For regular cleaning, a simple dust with a lightly dampened cloth will suffice. To remove mold or other surface stains, add 1/2 cup bleach to 4 liters water. Be sure to rinse thoroughly after washing. The wood might swell slightly when wet, but it will settle as it dries.
To keep this wood in top shape, we recommend that the following maintenance service be conducted every ten to twelve months, which is why we offer all our clients X2 free services per year.
In case you prefer to service the product on your own, below are the steps you can follow:
- For products that have been varnished or sealed, you will first need to sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to remove the wood sealants.
- You then need to ensure that the surface of the wood is clean. You may use a commercial wood cleaner to remove any stubborn dirt spots and stains (be sure to read the product description of the cleaner beforehand to check for any cautions or potential limitations of the product).
- If you’ve used any cleaning products or damp clothes, make sure to rinse the surface thoroughly and then allow the wood to dry completely.
- Once clean and dry, you need to apply a wood oil. Following the wood grain, apply a thin layer of oil onto the wood surface using a lint-free cloth (recommended) or a soft natural-bristle paintbrush or roller.
- Allow the oil to dry (allow for roughly four to six hours between applications) before rubbing the surface down with a soft cloth to remove excess oil.
- Give the surface another light sand with fine-grit sandpaper.
- Apply another fine layer of oil and repeat the process as necessary to achieve the desired finish. Usually between two to four coats will do the trick.
Every grain tells a story
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